Zimbabwe and Zambia Travel Blog

“Dr. Livingston I presume?”

Ever since I arrange to visit Livingston, Zambia – I’ve been wanting to say that. :)

After a long day of travel. Starting in Hazyview, South Africa in the Drakensburg Mountains. Transferring to the Kruger airport, Flying back to Johannesburg (my 4th time already!), then finally flying to Livingston. I’m in another African country.

The Zambia airport is modern and clean. Somehow I’m surprised. But I don’t stay long. Pushed thru custom’s… I struggle with proper answers to my onward travel. Somehow getting into Zambia anyway. My onward travel plan is unknown!!

My travel plans to Botswana have been cancelled at the last moment. So, my original plan of just 2 days around the Victoria Falls must be amended. But..to what I have not figured out! That problem is for later and another blog. For now, its getting to my hotel. But my hotel isn’t even in Zambia! It’s in Zimbabwe. Figure that out !!

I am met by my pre-arranged transfer. Thankfully. Without his help, I’m not entirely sure how I figure this out on a first visit here. Paying for just the Zambia visa ($25), I manage to get thru customs. But my stay in Zambia is just an hour or so. I am transported to a land border crossing. Crossing to Zimbabwe.

And wow, what a curious crossing. First; a last stop and chat with Zambia security. That itself was chaos. My Rona PCR test only on my phone, they are displeased with me not having a printed copy. They ‘must’ stamp something. So,,,they literally ‘stamp’ my phone. The image of my PCR result is displayed, they stamp ink onto my iphone’s screen. TIA – everything is a surprise here. I am permitted to leave Zambia…. Just a 2 hours after arriving. At least I don’t have to pay a bribe. Cool, but Crazy.

But the crossing is not complete. We wind past a double line of trucks, squeezing by. No-man’s land. A few hundred meters between the two countries. Stopping again, this time for another PCR check…again. More phone issues. The guide takes my phone and passport, disappearing to ‘handle it’. He returns with a tiny torn piece of paper – my ‘chit’ to prove my PCR check is valid. I then wait for an immigration officer to arrive. A road-side entry to Zimbabwe. I pay $40 in cash, no card machine, and no change for $100. But,,they do give me a $10 back for the $30 entry visa to Zim. And another Visa is posted to my passport. I’m permitted to enter. A lengthy, manual process.

All money transactions are in US dollars here. Their own currency is worthless, to anyone. There is no exchange rate. Restaurants, taxi, tips, hotels, retail items – only in US dollars. They will accept South African Rand,,,but prefer US dollars.

(I’ll blog about this concept separately…its impact on the economics of the planet are immense)

I’m escorted thru another open-air security check. Eye’ed, but not stopped. Here I am handed over to a new transfer. My Zambia guide can not go further, he is not permitted into Zimbabwe. Finally, I cross into Zimbabwe, and board my new vehicle. A huge bus, I’m the only passenger. After a short ride, thru the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe – I arrive at my hotel. Pioneers Victoria. It’s an absolute oasis. Beautiful grounds, room, fast WiFi, pools, high quality restaurants, outstanding staff. I needed this. I’m a little beat-up from travel these last few days. Breath!

I work on onward travel. Selecting a new Safari camp. This one in Zimbabwe, since my Botswana cancelation. Yeah, Bot’s denied my entry because I have not received a Rona booster shot… and am not considered ‘fully’ vaccinated. Regardless of a PCR test. I am not allowed entry. Now a scramble to refund my 2 Safari camps, flights, transfers that I’ve been looking forward to. Botswana leaders must not care about their people. Thousands of dollars will be transferred from Bots, to Zim camps – thankfully. I am working with a travel agent in Cape Town for these details… and she comes thru for me. Helping re-book and arrange flights and more PCR test. Onward Travel.

Again, the use of cash is a curious event. Local Zim and Zam money is of no value. Its just for a souvenir. US cash everywhere. Third world monies have been inflated and become useless here. I see this in most third-world countries now.

With a loose plan now in forming. Today I visit the famous Victoria Falls. One of the 7 natural wonders of the world. Why is it that everything is part of a list of 7 ?

Just a few minute drive from my hotel, Vic Falls are in full glory. They slow to a trickle for 4+ months a year, and are at their most powerful now for the next few months. The immense, scary power of water crashing. The water spray rising far far above the falls. I stand in rain showers while viewing much of this giant. I’m on the Zimbabwe side of the Falls and Zambezi river for my up-close visit. My view from the Zambia side where just glimpses as I transferred from the airport. A old iron span bridge crosses the Zambezi newer the merger of the East and West sides of these falls. Not as magnificent as he Iguazu in Brazil/Argentina, but still incredible. It is curious how Vic Falls runs a great long distance, along a huge fault-line created by an ancient tectonic shift. And the depths of the water pools below, as they feed the Zambezi river are amazingly deep. 75m they say. Wow. Cool stuff. Another world icon I’ve experienced. I am the only true international tourist there. Only a few local Zimbabwe visitors are even there to see this World Icon. The lack of tourism is killing the locals!! Onward travel !

I add a visit to a local Zimbabwe Ndebele village. Helping me understand these people’s history and culture. Zimbabwe people seem more at-ease here then South Africa, or Moz. Literacy rate is quite high – their former long-time President Robert Mugabe can be credited for that. And the police appear less corrupt. Violence and life here more predictable also. So while in the end, Mugabe become a violent dictator – he did pull Zimbabwe forward, a strange paradox.

I finalize my re-bookings, and will now add Hwange, Zimbabwe Safari. Staying at Somalisa Acacia Camp. This Safari is more my style!! Authentic feel. No air conditioner, just open screens. But, this is a high desert geography, and the evening are cool,,,even if the days get hot-hot. I’m the only guest from most of my stay here,,just one other couple for a short time sharing this camp.

Just one driver on my Game drives – Dixon. I enjoy his company. We speak of Zimbabwe and the world. Tracking the animals. Even finding a leopard in the late night. Elephants come up to my hotel room, drinking from the pond. Morning and evening Game drives, crazy good Zimbabwe coffee. I learn so-much of Zimbabwe, I want to return… next time to Manna pools, and their capital Harare.

The game drive highlight is visiting with 3 young Lion cubs and their mother. They eat a Zebra, jump and play. Fat and happy. This is a treat. Another Safari, another lesson. Enjoying meals in their Boma (enclosed outdoor gathering place). Joking of labola paid for their wives dowery. Enjoying their culture. Learning a bit of Shona. Enjoying the music and dancing by the Safari camp provided as entertainment for the visitors (me!).

I return to Vic. Falls on a Cessna Caravan once again. Just me on this 13 seat plane. I have the co-pilot seat. Such fun, great views. During the dinner on the prior night, the pilot and my guide continue my education of Zimbabwe, speaking economics and life here, their history. I live for those experiences!!

One last night back in Victoria Falls and my Pioneers hotel. Time to breath, time for Wifi picture uploads, posts, onward travel plans. I’m disappointed in missing Botswana, but wow,,I learn so much of Zimbabwe. Always an adventure in Africa.

Next - back to South Africa and Cape Town for a few days. Collect my dive gear, and push forward. Exploring the planet. But I NEED to return to Africa soon, so much more to explore. More and more adventures, more Safari’s and more people to meet.

I’ve made new friends here, under an Orange African Sky.