St. Lucia Travel Blog

Another Windward Island of the Lesser Antilles.

I’m on an easy flight into St. Lucia,  Castries, their capital.   Onward from Dominica,  just a 50 minute flight.

A short Immigration line.. I’m in.

I’m only here for 5 nights.. just a quick look around.

I’ve arranged a rental car from the airport.. but hit a snag.  The arranged car has a flat tire .. and needs to be delivered to me tomorrow.  No-worries.. I’ve booked a hotel near the airport – so I take a cab there – just 15 minutes.

I’m at Harbour Vista Inn – an old house… With 100 steps to climb, on the side of a mountain.  Turns out,  all my hotels St. Lucia have 100 steps to climb,, Ugg.  Well,  its good exercise.  Lugging dive gear up and down stairs is a bitch for an old-man ☹   The Inn is a little on the rough side,, but cheap and near-by,, it works.

Back on plan; Hertz – my rental car company delivers my car.  And I’m off.

Driving south to Soufriere.  Soufriere is French for Sulfur Mine,  and has the same city name I visited in Dominica last week.  Small neighborhood.

Surprisingly,  the roads here are good.  And sections of road that are not-good – are hard pressed gravel, and actively being prepared for paving.    I see several crews working the roads as I travel the coastline.

Just 2 hours,  and I’m at my dive destination.  I do a quick checkin with Action Adventure Divers,, and I’m off to my hotel.  Its Sunday,, and almost every restaurant is closed..and the Grocery stores are closed too. ☹  Not good.

Here in St. Lucia,, I struggle with finding food.  99% of the visitors are either on Cruise ships or staying at all inclusive resorts.  I’m neither.  Solo, unscripted guys are not normal here..  Eating local,  finding street food – I’m always an outlier.

My hotel – Villa Des Pitons – has incredible views of the famous Pitons of St. Lucia.  Everyone knows them. A world Heritage site,  and featured in every St. Lucia advertisement around the world.. and boy,,,do they advertise.

But… although the hotel views are grand.. The hotel has seen better days.  An old French monstrosity.  Looks like it might have been OK before the 2020 Lock Downs.. but now,, it’s a struggle.  I’m the only guest,  a little creepy. No reception, no parking.  Just a maid,  speaking Creole,,, hands me the key.

Well,,  I do like adventures and oddities. This qualifies.  Feels like I’m in the Shining (the movie).   More steps…  I have a room with a loft.. and no water pressure, and no hot water.   But… The views are Magnificat… Did mention their French?

The next day I track down the reception.  Get the water pressure fixed.. and pay for my stay.. Cash only.  I’m here for just three nights.

Failing on breakfast again – I start the next day diving,, just my instant Travel Coffee for a kick start. Two dives.  From the beachside dive shop ... a short 15 minute boat ride.  10 divers, packed on a small skiff.  Lucky the seas where calm.  Diving here was very modest.. but the majesty of the Pitons above makes up for it.  Wow.. they are beautiful.

On one dive,, the dive master is Lion fish hunting.  And then… is feeding Spotted Morays the Lion Fish..  It’s an undersea entertainment show.  Morays come out like pets.. snatching the Lion Fish..   It’s hoped that this feeding will teach the Moray to hunt Lion Fish – bring balance to the marine environment (Lion Fish are considered invasive).

With the diving here being very average - I cut the diving off after one day.. and do some exploring.

First thing the next day .. is to hike a part of the Pitons.. I make my way to - The Tae Paul Nature Hike and the climb of Stairway to Heaven.  Outstanding and worthy.  Another World Heritage Site. Just a 1 hour hike – it brings me almost even to the Piton peaks.. I stand centered between the two.  Photography central.

Pushing on from the Pitons;  I visit Diamand Falls and its Botanical Garden.  As expected,,endless beautiful flowers .. with a small waterfall… Ho hum .. doesn’t everybody have this in their back yard..  Really though – there are another dozen falls and hiking trails to explore.. plenty to discover.

I find St. Lucia geography very similar to Dominica.  A mountainous interior,, with everyone living along the coastline.

One more night in Soufriere,  and I’m driving north already.  Directly to Pigeon Island, and a visit to another Fort.  Fort Rodney.   A tiny fort.. 3 cannons.. not much there.  But nice views of the bay.  The drive north takes me by more all-inclusive Sandals resorts.. they must own this island.

One comment on the people of St. Lucia.  Most will be friendly.. understanding the value of tourism..  The Pandamic Lock Downs destroyed the economy here…  They must be 90% tourism.  Bananas are their second largest GDP item.. and how much money can you get from just bananas.. NOT MUCH.   

……  But,  I have encounters with 3-4-5 people begging.  Clearly – the economic collapse of 2020 is not over here.  Many many businesses, old hotels, shops are closed, Rona warning signs hang everywhere ... in total disrepair.. many will never reopen.

In 3 cases,, after going to a restaurant.. and coming back to my parked car – which is in a ‘free’ lot… I am approached by a man saying that ‘He has been watching my car, keeping it safe’  and he needs payment for his service.  In one case,,,the guy didn’t want to take no for an answer.. pressing me hard.

For me.. this isn’t a difficult one-off event.  I’ve experience it in Africa and India a hundred times.  I can manage it,, but a woman,,or someone inexperienced and frail….  That would have been a problem.

This is the first time in the Caribbean I’ve experienced this behavior.  Yes.,, I haven’t been to Jamaca or Hatti.. so I’m thinking I’ll see that there.. but St. Lucia – it’s a surprise.  The economic and educational loss here is bigger than I realized.. it’s like Africa in that way.

With just one last night in St. Lucia.. I book in at the same Castries Inn – near the airport.  Refill the gas… figure out food.  Have a relaxing last night.

Early early departure on my last day.  I have a long day of traveling ahead.  Unavoidable.  I’m doing 4 island hops on my way to BVI – British Virgin Islands.

SLU-BGI-ANU-SKB-BVI   - holy crap..  Hope this works.

Just to keep it real.. I’ll share the trials of solo adventure travels..

I accidentally booked this difficult transfer on the wrong Month!!!  I did discover the error in time,, but the booking agent (cheapo.com),, refused to assist in the rebooking or any refund.. ☹ uggg.    As I argue my case to the cheapo.com Customer Service agent.. he says to me:  “Please stop Trumpeting.” ….   needless to say,,, I lost the argument. I think he was trying to insult me  - hilarious.

I successfully rebook the correct month,, but had to take the wasted tickets as a loss.  So now.. an empty seat is available on all those flights.. but no one to fill the seat..   The price of world adventure. 

I have a live aboard dive boat booked in BVI, my next destination.  More diving on the program card.

Wish me luck with the flights !!

Onward.