Morocco Blog - a Travelogue

North Africa. I arrive to Marrakesh via Hurghada/Cairo/Casablanca … and I’m greeted in French.. I feel welcomed, immigration is painless…. A relief after the challenge of visiting Egypt. In just a few minutes I find a taxi to the Medina - the old city quarter and my hotel. This adventure is off to a great start.

Marrakesh - The ‘Red’ city, so-called for the color of its old city Walls and buildings. Built with red tinted clays and sands; everything seems to have a slight red shade,,it helps create the romantic ambience I find here. French mixed with Arabic and Berber. I’m in Morocco!

I’ve picked a perfect small Riad here! A fantastic cultural experience. The room is huge, service friendly, rooftop breakfast great.. A name to remember; Riad Wow.

Already late after the long flight from Egypt, I head out for dinner in Marrakesh. My Riad is just a few minutes from Jemaa el-Fnaa square,,, an expansive plaza packed with people, entertainment, and everything in between. This is Marrakesh!!!! Jemaa el-Fnaa just might be the coolest place in Africa.

Graham Nash was onto something when he told us about the Marrakesh Express! 😊

I eat in the middle of this carnival, at one of the thousand food tents. 25-30k people fill the square and connected allies. Outstanding kabab, tajine, local foods, ahhhh,, I’m in love with Morocco after just landing!!!

This place is crazy cool. Cobra snake charmers, Horse carriages, monkey’s doing tricks, music, food, street performers, boxing matches, hawkers everywhere. The alleys and streets surrounding the square are filled with local Souq’s. Small shops and stalls and tents. I spend the next few days exploring their Jardin’s,,,Garden oasis’s in the middle of this vibrant city. Walking everywhere, I feel totally comfortable,,, and can’t believe this is the first time I’ve been here.. This is a tourism magnet. Funny (for me),,,, I ‘saw’ Morocco from Gibraltar 30 years ago..but never made the visit till now.

I book a last second a tour of the nearby Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains, along with the Western Sahara Desert,, just a driver (Abdullitif) and me!!! Time to really learn about Morocco. Leaving my dive gear at my Marrakesh Riad – I’m off the grid again.

I’ve lucked out again here in Morocco. My driver is a Berber from the mountains, and he teaches me about the history and life in North Africa. Authentic, open, friendly. Abdullatif, of Cultural Morocco Tours made this desert adventure better than I imagined possible!! I am treated as a friend,,not a nameless tourist.

Driving into the nearby Atlas Mountains, exploring its gorges, oasis rivers cutting thru rock-faced canyon’s. The mountains are red in this section of Morocco. Red clay and rocks remind me of Sedona, AZ – and the high deserts of Southwest, US. A few of the switchback roads are out a movie or car commercial. Boumalen Dades and Todra gorge visits are packed with dramatic landscape. I hike up one section, enjoying the coolness of a summer stream, families with children playing. Its heavenly.

The ruins of 400 yo Kasbah are everywhere,, a few restored,,or just next to a more modern version. I have an entire Kasbah to myself for the evening at Dar Blue Kasbah,,I’m the only guest that day. Personal servers, personal chief, all in an oasis of the Atlas Mountains. This is insane!! Gourmet food, gigantic room.. I’m a king for the day!! It gives true meaning to the phrase – Rock the Kasbah!!! This is living large. I could get used to this!

We stop at Berber villages for juices and expresso.. And I’m entertained by the waiter and my guide. They play Berber songs using a guitar and a chair as a drum. Saying it is heartwarming is such an understatement. Authentic Morocco.

Next up is the big show! The Western Saharan desert. We are close to Algeria here, less than 15km. The Merzouga desert.

Ok, here goes!! A camelback adventure in the high sand dunes. Summer in the Sahara. Its only 44C as we set out… we’ve waited for it to cool off!!

Riding horses and camels is a challenge for me,,my hips don’t handle those adventures as they once did. But the riding is easy,,a young Berber ‘camelman’ leads me into the sands and a beautiful sunset. As darkness falls, we make it to my home for the night. A Bedouin tent, and a taste of North Africa.

Again good fortune is following me. I’m the only guest. Tiziri Camp is a luxury. Authentic and outstanding!! And before bed, the camp staff and my guide gather under the stars and share the most amazing music. Authentic Berber songs, and also a unique and newer sound…Desert Blues they call it. Songs of the Moroccan life, sung to a guitar and several drums…bongo style drums of various sizes and sounds. It’s a style completely unique. The lead singer (the owner of the camp) has toured professionally,, and is a magical genus. A private concert in the Sahara desert.

Oh my,, this adventure is out of a dream. To top-off my desert tent experience,,a sand storm comes thru. 50km winds, overturning everything at the camp not tied down. The door to my tent is blocked by sand in the morning, I have to force my way out!!,, and the landscape has re-written itself.. Amazing. Life in the Sahara.

Pushing on from my tent home the next day, starting out with a 4x4 ride out of the desert,, my guide brings me to Khamliya village to enjoy another culture of Morocco. A village of former slaves, Black peoples that survive on the edge of the desert by providing a unique music to Morocco. They are Soffit Muslims, dressed in white robes. Singing a mix of Central African sounds mixed with Arabic. Handheld symbols, drums and dancing. I first saw them at the Marrakesh Jemaa el-Fnaa square, but here in their home village the feeling is less touristic…they even drag me into the dance circle!!! I’m just happy no one was around for a picture!! – dancing is not my strong suit! 😊

I spend 5 days exploring the Atlas Mountains, and the Western Sahara of Morocco. Stopping at local cafés for expresso, eating grilled lamb, experiencing local Moroccan life. Hearing Berber stories. A privilege. Canyons, gorges, deserts. Taxis with sheep tied to their roofs. Driving past hundreds of ancient Kasbah’s in ruin. Adding one final stop, a visit of the Glaoui Kasbah and it’s amazing mosaic’s … a palace of the caravans!! I will never forget this adventure!!

I return to Marrakesh for a few more days, retrieving my dive gear from my Riad. Walking Jamaa el-Fnaa each night, discovering Secret Jardin, and visiting a Mosaic palace museum (Madersa Ben Youssef), randomly wandering the Madina,,I could stay here a month an never tire of the vibrant culture… donkeys pulling carts alongside of small motorbikes, the Mosques call to prayers echoing thru the streets.... As everywhere in Northern Africa,,cats and more cats,,,they are connected to the culture.

But I’m always aware of my location,,,,often you will be (mis)directed down dead end streets where the hawkers try to push their souvenirs on you,, or worse.

Although Morocco isn’t life in abject poverty,,,it still is a 3ed world environment !!; just be smart, polite if possible (sometimes that can be impossible ☹ and immerse yourself in Morocco. I love this place!

For my last night in Marrakesh, I spoil myself with a gourmet dinner. Live Moroccan music at a lush courtyard restaurant. I had at least 30 different foods,,a tapas meal, each dish better than the rip last. My meals have been outstanding,,everywhere. Wow, I never would have guessed.

Now, it’s time to catch a train!!!

The Marrakesh Express!!! I travel by train to Casablanca. Singing the old Crosby, Stills and Nash song,,, scenic Morocco rolls by. Too cool. But it’s not 1969, the train is modern, smooth, and only takes 2.5 hours. Its times like this that lugging my dive gear around sucks,,the price of Scuba diving! Trains are best with small bags only!! I somehow manage.

Casablanca is a modern city. Very different than Marrakech. No Riads, no big square, just ‘normal’ western style hotels (Radisson Blu). So I arrive thinking it will be boring there?

I was wrong!! Even my taxi ride from the train station is an event!! My driver broke every driving law ever written! Running lights, signs, cutting off cars every few seconds, jumping the queue’s. Insane !!!

I walk their Medina for several days; visit the Hassan II Mosque, have expresso along the Marina Prominade, stop by Ricks Café for a French 75 and a Burrata lunch – Bogey and Ingrid would approve!!. Casablanca is not boring!! A curious coincidence, the movie Casablanca is also 75 years old this year. Maybe that’s good karma!

Hassan II Mosque is the third largest Mosque in the world. A modern masterpiece. Built in just 6 years, finished in 1993. Its mosaic’s, shining marble, gorgeous woodwork, soaring giant retractable ceiling, an expansive plaza surrounding the main Mosque structure…all overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The tallest minaret in the world. This is the most beautiful, impressive Mosque I’ve ever seen. I could visit here a dozen times!! Amazing.

The Casablanca Medina has a totally different vibe than Marrakesh’s. It has hundreds of tiny alleyways, with much of the produce and products found in Marrakesh…but gone are the hawkers… there are fewer tourists so the vibe is more local,, Moroccans just shopping.... But it the streets definitely have a dangerous side at night,,sticking to the larger roads is a good plan!!

I track down a fantastic gourmet French dinner at La Bavarosie, just a 10-minute walk from my hotel. French everywhere; hotel staff, street names, menus, restaurants. On the walk back to my hotel that evening, I cross paths with a movie set in production! Its always fun to watch live cinema productions. Dozens of camera’s, actors, directors; it’s a night city street scene so there are big flood lights,,cars and trams follow the film crew….

Maybe Humphrey Bogarts ghost is around here somewhere😊 (or Charlie Chaplin, another famous Morocco guest)

Time to move on from Morocco. My Berber Dessert guide gift’s me a backpack patch for my collection…nothing tops that!!

Morocco has been the perfect host. No diving, but - This adventure has been the best overall experience all year! … that’s 13 countries and counting – no kidding, Morocco is the winner!!