Dominica Travel Blog

A Windward Island,  Lesser Antilles,  the Caribbean,  West Indies.

Another late arrival.   Another delayed flight – relax Bruce,, its island time.

I’m not liking this plan,   but it is the best flight out of Antigua.   Just 30 minutes to my next destination.   Well,  I’m here now.  9:00pm - Dominica.  Another Adventure begins.

Dominica is a Windward Island,  of the Lesser Antilles. .. and for my visit – It was windy!!!  Wonder if it’s like that all year ?    (I visit Feb, 2025) 

Although only a few passengers are on my WinAir flight .. Surprisingly,  Immigration is a serious affair.   Lucky I completed their new app in advance..  and took a screen shot of the QR code.  It really helped !!

My rental car pickup was slightly strange.  Hauling my luggage across dark black parking lots .. to a distant building… unsure of my destination,, I see a small building.. it has a light on.. I cross my fingers.  Looking for a car Rental company.

Yadah Yadah.. no kidding, that’s their name.  Unusual and strange rental… But,, I have to compliment Yadah Yadah - the staff  ‘escorts’ me to my first night hotel  – near the airport.

And I’m grateful for that escort.   No streetlights. insane poor roads.  Bad directions.. ugg.. that would have been a problem at night without the help.

I’m in Marigot for just one night. An Airbnb..  actually,  the basement of someone’s home, on a mountain hillside.  But the host is an angel.  She’s outside as I pull up,, it’s late late at night.   Time to crash and start fresh tomorrow.  Thank you Nature Haven.

Dominica is raw and unpretentious.  For now. It seems untouched by the crush of modernization. Everything feels 50 years old. Mostly shacks, snack shops, almost no proper hotels or restaurants.  It’s work traveling about the island,  but the payoff is HUGE.  I’m falling for Dominica already.

Next morning I’m on the road to Soufriere,  the very south of Dominica.  No restaurants or food in sight.  Only a 2-3 hour drive.  Over the high central mountains,,, to the Caribbean side of the island. 4500ft and higher.  Dominica has stunning views in every direction.  Clouds hold the peaks.

Surprisingly, this main road is quite good.  I find out later – the Chinese built it. Along with a new airport (in progress), and another port (in progress).. Again,  I wonder – what’s the deal.  Hope the Dominica people aren’t being ripped off in the end..  For now,  this stretch of road is passable.. lucky for me.

But still,  almost every road here is an adventure. Some sections with huge pot holes  - a crumbling mess.  And the Street Lights are story just by themselves..  Another Chinese product,, or was it a ‘gift’ ?  Almost zero road lights are currently working,, yet there are hundreds along the roads.  Each with a mini solar panel atop.. and strangely,  a mini wind-mill too  – redundant power source I guess.

But why are they not working ?  I never see any of the wind-mills turn.  OK.. what about the solar panels?   Well,,, the batteries failed, each pole has its own battery.. many of the batteries have been stolen,, the others just failed.  In some cases - the entire pole has been cut down.  To steal the solar panel I guess.  It’s a disaster and a joke.

Guess you can’t completely blame the Chinese for this-one..   Just that someone should have predicted this wasteful outcome.. No leadership,, ‘free money’ – what could go wrong.

Soufriere, I’ve made it – in south south of Dominica,, and it is charming.  Tiny town. Squeezed between two mountains in a steep rift. With one dive shop – lucky me.  Nature Island Divers is a first rate, quality dive shop. A fantastic staff,, and fantastic diving.  I’m loving this.  Genuine Dominica. This is traveling!!

Another Airbnb.. Hard to find a proper hotel here in Soufriere.  Just one close by, and it is booked.  All to the good. My experience is 100x better.  Local.  Imbedded in the community.  I’m diggin this.

I dive here for 3 days – each better than the last!!  Scotts Head point is insanely beautiful.  Colorful coral and reef fish. This is definitely on my return list. I come away with dozens of great photos.. I’m in my element.  A great mix of wall dives and reefs.. outstanding.   Scotts Head point dive sites are outstanding !!

I mix in one practice dive with my new toy;  an Insta 360  - similar to a GoPro.  I need to figure that thing out..!!!  another project.

One surprise here is the free divers!! Tons of them.. maybe 30+ ,, all gather near and around the dive shop.. but on their own plan.. Dominica is famous for Whale Watching .. and everyone wants to free dive with them.  And somehow, Dominica has evolved to be free diving central.  Interesting.

Unfortunately,  the local people of Dominica net fish and trap heavily.  I see buckets of Barracuda pulled ashore.  It’s tough on the reef and the fish.. Add to that – no water treatment plants exist here (like almost all Caribbean islands).  Just pipes into the ocean. Ugg,  I worry for the reef. ... and don't even mention the Cruise ships piled high!!

For now,, the balance holds.. People need to feed their family – what option is there ?  I know its popular to blame the climate…. But just look in front of you – its not that complex.

Finding food in Soufriere is a challenge ,, I find that to be true all over Dominica.  Be flexible Bruce, don’t expect gourmet.  This is closer to a 3ed world country than any Caribbean island I have visited so-far…. And that’s exactly what I love dearly about Dominica. 

Later the next day - I locate a snack shop,, getting cereal and shelf milk for breakfast tomorrow.  .. I rely on my travel coffee ..   First night in Soufriere, I eat at Nadines.. a cultural experience.  The food was OK at Nadines,  but I was surrounded with drunks and blaring Reggae music, and a  guy they called the Russian (also drunk)– island time.  The Russian wants to chat.  H claims to be a Doctor … and tells me 2,3,4 times.. that I’m safe here .. very reassuring. 😊😊😊  Blend in Bruce!!

Eventually  - I discover Chez Wen’s restaurant for several good meals – excellent Tuna one night.   Just a 10 minute drive from my Airbnb.

It’s February,  and the wind and rain seem to keep coming.. Passing quickly, but always around the corner,  rolling down the high mountains each morning.  One great gift from this weather pattern … the sky often holds a Rainbow.  I see at least a dozen Rainbows during my visit .. no kidding.. Maybe we should rename this Rainbow island.

With my Soufriere diving complete.  I’m on the road again.  Driving to the far north of Dominica for more diving.  A 3 hour drive.

Along the way,  I search out Trafalgar Falls – in the central Dominica mountains. This feels like a Costa Rica Rainforest.  Trafalgar Falls - Twin waterfalls,, wow,, as beautiful as any on the planet.  This island is as beautiful as Hawaii – more!! 

And today,, more luck ,, no cruise ships are in town. The giant Cruise ships dock at Roseau – the capital city. And they bus people out to this Falls.

… so for my Trafalgar Falls visit – the Falls are completely empty.. I have this masterpiece to myself – I sit under its magic for 30+ minutes.  Ahhh.. Heaven on earth.  It’s like a healing medicine.

Many people traveling here will plan major hikes – like Boiling Lake.. Not so much for me -  I do spend 3 days doing some light hiking .. just not the heavy all-day trips like Boiling Lake.   Sticking more to easy waterfalls and short sections of trails.  Maybe next visit I’ll take on the bigger challenges here.

Traveling the far north of Dominica - I reach Portsmouth.  Find my dive shop.  Find my hotel (

Riverside hotel – a Chinese hotel,  very clean and well operated.

Next – it’s time to search out food,,  I end up at the Purple Turtle,  eating a beef burger, meeting a local Rasta (Yellow) .. this isn’t gourmet central … but the company is entertaining and it’s the only thing open.  I feel comfortable. Yellow is an education on Dominica.

Early the next morning.. I’m back in the ocean.  Diving with a French plongee shop.  Cabrits Diving.  Diving tip #101:  Always bring a DIN adapter when diving with the French 😊 

I meet up here in Portsmouth with an acquaintance  – Izzy.  I’ve been messaging him the last few weeks for Dominica travel advice,, and now I finally meet him.  Izzy is a freelance dive master, and friend of Paul – from Seminole Scuba, my local dive shop owner in Florida.  Izzy’s advice was invaluable for my Dominica planning.  It’s always a win when I have an in-country contact..  Thanks Izzy.

Two days of diving around Cabrits.  Each morning the weather looks horrible.. but by the time we are over the dive sites.. The weather clears.  One day,  the viz is outstanding!!!  The best I’ve had this year.. Sure makes a difference in photography !!!  I leave with some clear great photos.. cool.

I’ve been on the move for over a month.. I need to Rest!! So I schedule 3 extra free days here in the north of Dominica. Time to work on my dive photos,  blog,  post on IG, sleep..

I do squeeze in some more hiking.  Cabrits National Park – with Fort Shirley.. and tons of cool cannons.  I always say - Never can have enough cannons.

Hiking was easy here.  3-4 hours for all the Cabrits trails. Plenty of dramatic ocean views and history.  I was scuba diving just below these cannons yesterday !!!  Dominica changed hands between the British and French 3 times.. more history lessons on the Caribbean.

I learn of the Battle of the Saints.. 1782.  During the American Revolutionary war.. The French lost.., the French pay a price for supporting our Revolution. Interesting naval history.

One more intense adventure in Dominica remaining.  I search out more hiking in the Central high mountains.  I get to the Morne Diablotin Trail,, and the Syndicate trail.  Starting at 2000ft.. going to over 4600ft.  The drive to the trail head is intense.. Maps useless and totally inaccurate.  Google absolutely wrong.  I had to drive across several small streams..  a little sketchy. No signs until  I find the trail head – heading straight up!!  A mountain Rainforest Jungle.  Man,, this is an adventure.

I only hike a small section of these trails.  If you want summit this mountain .. you need a plan … and a guide.  I’m just here for the experience.  Thick dense Rainforest.

In-fact,, I feel a little anxious on this hike.  Unusual for me.  Solo is cool,, my normal .... but this is a little scary.  No one anywhere near me.  No one knows where I am. This is remote central Dominica.  One flat tire, one fall, one problem.. It wouldn’t be cool.   I play it safe today – cutting the hike short …  I’m more comfortable with a dozen sharks circling me.

One final night in Portsmouth. Eat at the Chinese hotel. Time to pack again.

Back to the airport in the morning.. Return the Yadah Yadah rental car.  Grab a Roti and Carib from the airport restaurant.  Queue up for security…

Onward.