Carriacou and back; A Grenada Travel Blog

I’m back on the road after a 5 week stop in Bonaire.   Time to see more Caribbean islands.  

Grenada is next-up.   The Winward, Lesser Antilles.

Criss crossing the Caribbean again,,,  there are only a few ways into Grenada.   So, I must jump from Bonaire to Curacao for a night - find a hotel. Then jump to Trinadad for a night – another hotel …. Then finally to Grenada.  I make it.

Grenada is famous for Americans due to its history during the Reagan Presidency - 1983.  At the time,  Cuba had pushed troops onto Grenada, and some local strong-arm dictators had taken over the island ... then the US sent in Marines and Rangers .... Cuba retreated..  that was the end of that..

Grenada is also famous for its University of St. George,  its Medical school and Veterinary schools.  I met several student’s or their visiting family during my stay.

I’m booked in at a Dive Resort here in Grenada ... A little more upscale than my normal adventures ..  but it’s a perfect fit.  Dive-in, Dive-out.  True Blue Hotel,  with Aquanauts Dive center.  I roll out of  bed,  walk down the stairs to the dive-boat,,,and it begins.

True Blue has everything I need..  great restaurant on site, cool cabana beach-bar,  diver-vibe.

Aquanauts is a first-class dive operation..  Huge boats and top-notch crews.  I stay a week,  but could have stayed a month.

I pack in 2-tank dives each day,  outstanding.  4 days into diving, I need a rest day,,, I rent a car and explore the island.  Dive,  eat,  sleep  – explore!

Plenty of beautiful reefs here for diving, and 2-3 good wrecks.  Colorful coral and sponges and marine life.  One wreck on the rough rolling Atlantic side of the island… love that dive!!  I didn’t manage to dive their premier wreck  (Bianca C),, so guess I’ll need to return one day 😊

Highlights of diving are photos of Seahorse and a Manta shrimp,, and a Jawfish with eggs in his mouth.  Great stuff for a dive photographer.

And everyone that dives Grenada goes at-least once to their Underwater Sculpture park.  107 human sized statures.  Some 20 years old.  This site is a-bit famous among scuba divers.  Kinda-cool,  kinda-strange. The children holding hands in a circle is quite inspirational.  Other statues seem random,,with wings or gothic looks..  Many overgrown with algae and coral….as they should be 😊  - Well done Grenada.

Driving the central Grenada Mountains one afternoon was the perfect bookend to diving.   Crossing the mountains, and exploring the scenic west coast.  Hiking to Seven Sisters Falls is a must !! … in perfect conditions.  Rainforests, mountains, friendly people.  The roads are surprisingly good!!  Stay on the left,, buy another local ‘drivers license’ ...  I have 5-6 of those now ☹

During my exploration of Grenada,  I stop at a few of their famous beaches.. White sugar sand, with high-end resorts mostly – all beautiful, almost as beautiful as Antigua beaches…   But a few of the smaller beaches are more my style..    I end up at BBL Beach,  booked in at Gem Holiday Hotel on my final few nights in Grenda. … Caribs at their beach bar with new friends..  cool easy vibe.. listening to Soca… Grenada is one of the most chill islands I’ve ever visited.

As good as a visit to ‘mainland’ Grenada is;  Carriacou is my adventure to remember here!! 

… and the title of this blog:   Carriacou and back !!!

Carriacou is a small out island and officially part of the country of Grenada.  A visit there requires a scenic 2.5 hour ferry.. a local adventure!!    I book a last second room and a dive shop in Carriacou ….. and I’m off to the ferry for another epic experience.

I travel to Carriacou with no expectations.. just a hope for great Diving …  So,, it came as a surprise to see UN WFP tents (World Food Project) at the Tyrell Bay Port.. – that

‘S strange ?  like a third-world country ? Why are those tents here ?

I come to find out, Carriacou took a direct hit from Hurricane Beryl in July of last year (2024).  Now,  just 8 months later,  they are still climbing out of the rubble.  Demolished buildings litter the waterfront.  Piles of debris, wires.. Tourism just starting to return.

I’m unprepared for Carriacou.   I haven’t rented a car.. and plan to eat at restaurants near my hotel – The Townhouse Hotel, in Hillsborough.  My app says there are 10 restaurants just outside my hotel door..  Perfect, I’m set.

Well,,, that plan crashes.  All the restaurants in Hillsborough are closed..  I eat yogurt and banana bread for 1.5 days.. from a convenience store.   I finally figure out a food plan, with the help of my dive guide. 

A shack near the pier.  No name, No sign, No menu, No napkins, No utensils, No sides .... just chicken legs … it closes at 1:30pm .. but if you hurry after the dive.. you should find them open.

This shack,, is new my favorite Jerked Chicken Leg restaurant on the planet.  It saved me 😊

I’ll never forget the place, or the experience.  A 3ed world experience, in the Caribbean.  Wow,,  I wasn’t expecting this.

This a cash only destination.. stock up on EC money… or make sure your ATM card works here!

But in truth.  I’m loving every minute of the adventure.. I’m born for this.

The diving was first rate in Carriacou.  Deefer Diving is located directly on the beach,, 10 minutes from the reefs.   I have a personal guide for my dives,,, I was the only customer that week .... the Macro diving is better than mainland Grenada – great for photography.   lots to see, great viz.   I do find a few Eagle Rays, Cuda and plenty of lobster..  and diving Sister Rocks what outstanding.

Its easy to see the hurricane damage to the reefs… Soft coral piled up,, and shredded.  Add to that Stony Coral Disease found everywhere in the Caribbean,, not-to mention the nearby St. Vincent volcano eruption in 2021 … you might think the reefs are a wreak… NOT hardly… it was gorgeous.

No bleaching to be found,, that the ‘experts’ seem to write about daily ..  just mother nature taking its turn.  … even with the heavy over fishing/lobster harvesting and waste-water mis-management (non-existent) ..… at least for now, these reefs are holding those dangers back…

Even with the local natural challenges,  the reefs where teaming with life!! And beautiful..  Wow,,, imagine this place if/when nature and humans gives it a break.. 

And for sure,  a dive of the Carriacou Underwater Sculpture Garden is a must!!  A version similar to the Grenada’s sculpture park.. but yet unique and different… Better in my opinion.

The Carriacou Underwater Sculpture Garden is brand new.. almost no-one knows of its existence!!!  Built in Oct 2024, just after the hurricane..    And a privilege to dive,  it’s on my list to re-visit years from now.. to see how it ages. The statues are made of Stainless Steal.. 30 life sized statues,, holding oars, each standing in a small boat – Underwater 😊

Modeled after young men and women of Carriacou and Petite Martinique – a nearby neighboring island.  They are detailed,,, and beautiful to witness.  Titled -  ‘A World Adrift’   --  with global implications.  This artwork is an inspiration.

As challenging as my Carriacou visit is … it became even more crazy on the final day!!  I have planned to catch a Friday ferry back to Grenada.. easy.

No go !!! . It’s Good Friday.. The Ferry and everything is closed.. for a 4 day weekend.  

Holy crap!!!  I have a flight out of Grenada booked .. and onward travel to St. Vincent..  I have a problem!

I get some last second advice at the dive shop,, as I collect my wet dive gear … .. if you hurry Bruce,, you can make the last ferry out on Thursday night.. at 5pm …

It’s 4pm now!!!  No-way !!   I rush back to my hotel, pack my wet equipment in 10 minutes..  exit my hotel.. track down a taxi and head to the port…  Somehow,, I make it!!  I’m dizzy from the pace,, never have I packed and exited a hotel in 10 minutes..

With no hotel planned back in Grenada,, I wing it.. and randomly chose Gem Beach Hotel.. Lucky me,  and arriving late in the evening,,,, they have rooms.. I’m set..  Time to crash.. hard.

Ahh,  another country. Another epic adventure.  I love this place !!!

Onward.

**

One last important observation to share about Grenada..

The people.  The local people.   Are the most polite, respectful I have found anywhere in the Caribbean.  Everyone here looks you in the eye as you walk past,, and they acknowledge your existence – usually with a hello,, or at least a nod of good-day..   Truly, I’m a shocked.  What’s wrong with these people ?  They don’t seem to hate me.

… if you think that observation unusual, try reading my Virgin Islands blog,, for a 100% different experience.

Grenada is cool.  And I’m thinking,, there is a ton more to discover here.  Good diving, good roads, good beaches,  Soca vibe, good infrastructure, nice people.. not much to complain about..