Bula - Fiji time - Vinaka

Back to Nadi. After missing a flight here a few weeks ago, I’m back! This time killing a few hours until my flight to Tavenui – a Northern Fiji island. And what a flight to Tavenui; the Garden island of Fiji. Another tiny Twin Otter, with magnificent views of the Fiji atolls. I so love the view of island atolls from a low flying plane. - almost makes me want to lean how to fly!!

Tavenui airport is tiny tiny. Just a shack, like a few similar out-islands I’ve visited here in the South Pacific. But here, its lush tropical garden. Maravu Hotel – the grounds are a masterpiece of art. Giant coconut trees, manicured grass, colorful flowers and shrubs. And the bungalow I rent here was huge – big enough for 5+. A Spartan environment, but Huge. No electronics, and barely a light. Not your typical luxury’s … but paradise.

Diving with Tavenui Ocean Sports was ideal. I hooked into the local dive crew, and shared Saturday night party of music, food and Kava with them. I was welcomed into the group as-if I had been there 100x. – amazing to experience that open friendliness. Bula!!! Is the word on everyone’s lips as you walk by. And the diving ? Well, Somosomo Straits are packed with soft coral of every color. Rainbow reef and all its sister reefs are a stunning kaleidoscope of color.

The coral is interesting here. The colorful soft coral grows most-often on a back-drop of white, old dead coral. It looks as-if a Cyclone had killed off most of the reef 10 years back, and now the soft coral is reclaiming the underwater mountains as their own. Not much hard coral in Somosomo, but wow, endless color from the soft. Maybe more rainbow colors then I’ve ever seen. Not the huge fields of coral I’ve seen in other parts of this South Pacific journey, but more color packed in one spot…that’s for sure.

The wildlife offers just enough variety to keep the dives balanced with the colorful coral. The occasional shark, a frog fish, a large octopus, a Manta-Shrimp, a very interesting Ribbon eel – unique to Fiji. The amazing array of small reef fish hovering above and around the coral was mesmerizing and made for perfect photos. Tons of Anthias in purple and orange everywhere. Diving was easy and fun here.

I added a great hike to visit 3 waterfalls. The famous Bouma waterfalls here are magical to view. I hiked to the third falls and enjoyed a refreshing swim in its pool under a rainforest. A dream land in the South Pacific. Mostly I don’t feel lonely on my adventures…but just then, I would have truly loved to share the moment with those that I’ve loved (and lost) …and continue to love. So much beauty in the world…just reach out a touch it!!!!

After a week in Taveuni, I jumped back to Nadi and the main Fiji island (Viti Lavu). Renting a car, I journey to Pacific Harbor on the southern coast. Driving again on the left side of the road…but no worries, I’m well practiced after NZ.

In Pacific Harbor, I’ve managed to book into the Uprising. Another gorgeous Fiji resort. On the South Pacific ocean; I awake to the surf and parakeets each morning. And in another huge bungalow. Wow, are all the rooms here so-big? I’ve arranged the shark adventure dive with Aqua-Trek for the morning. Off to the deep again.

The shark diving was Epic. Huge Bull, Lemon, Nurse, Silver tip, Black tip, White tip. All swimming past, making eye contact, feeding. I take hundreds of pictures and videos. Just another day at the office.

The Polynesian culture is always warm and welcoming – and Fijians maybe more then most. One of the curious cultural traditions that I’ve observed are the high number of feminine men…transvestites. Not gay exactly. Very much carrying themselves as a woman. As-I-understand-it :: This is life path is tied to their family upbringing. Often, the families are can be quite large 7-8-9 children to one wife. Tradition has-it, that the first born will help the mother raise the others. It’s a ton of work to find firewood, cook, wash, farm, be a wife all-at-once. To help with the workload the first born takes a large role. If the first born is a girl – fine. But if the first born is a male; he is dressed and raised as a girl. Later in life, he may revert to a male..but then, he may not (it is his choice at some point). So not surprisingly, the Polynesian cultures have a high number of he-she’s.

As I dive the big island of Viti Vavu – Fiji as most people know it – I add a short stop at a rainforest and waterfall. Colo-i-Swa just outside of Suva. Locals hanging out – like going to Wekiva Springs for us. I pass Small villages every few miles. Sugar cane fields are everywhere – almost ready to be harvested. Palms, colorful plants, jungle all with a backdrop of mountain peaks around you and in the distance. Looks like pictures I’ve seen of Hawaii…the setting is inspiring.

Ohh.. and I got a flat. After changing to the temp spare tire…. I had to spend the afternoon circling the streets of Suva (the capital) in search of a Tire-center. Finally, someone offers to lead me there --- THANK YOU to Fiji hospitality… I get a quick repair and I’m back on the road. Wow…what a road on the east-side. Paved,,,but with hundreds of pot holes. Its amazing I didn’t get a second flat.

I circle the island and arrange a hotel in Rakiraki. Wananavu Beach Resort – It was wonderful. Stunning sunsets and views of the Bligh Waters off the North shores of Fiji. Named after Captain Bligh who sailed these waters after his mutiny and lived to tell his story.

Diving here was again great. Similar to diving Tavenui. The first 2-dives where soft coral wonderlands like Somosomo straights. The second 2 where hard coral dives around a maze of Bommies (coral pinnacles) – kinda fun to dive them, but the visibility was modest. But no-matter…its Fiji and its all fantastic... and you can’t beat walking from my room to the boat in 2-minutes. Dive-in-Dive-out !!!

One last push and I loop back to Nadi. My third or fourth or fifth time here. I’ve lost track. I did manage to explore Port Denaru – the high end enclave of Fiji. More like Fort Lauderdale of the South Pacific. Guarded gates, a restaurant and port complex, all the high-end hotels and private homes. They run most to tourist cruise ships from here. Definitely a wonderful experience…and the best meal I’ve had in Fiji.

After returning my rental car, I settle in at my Nadi hotel for a little onward travel planning. Flight out in the morning….. Where’s my travel agent ??

Vinaka – thanks for reading